Behind the seams: Clothes make the Marines in ‘A Few Good Men’ on Broadway

Costume designer Alejo Vietti shares the inside scoop on how he created the uniforms worn by Tom Blyth, Bradley Whitford, and more in Aaron Sorkin's play.

Summary

• Costume designer Alejo Vietti discusses how he achieved military precision with his costumes for A Few Good Men on Broadway
• He worked with a Marine Corps liaison to ensure that the onstage uniforms were authentic
• Aaron Sorkin's military courtroom drama centers on a murder trial that uncovers a deeper conspiracy in the Marines

In A Few Good Men, a Marine’s belongings take on urgent significance. Clothes make the serviceman — they're a dramatic reminder of how much attire can matter.

Costume designer Alejo Vietti can handle that truth. He was keenly aware of that fact as he worked on director Michael Arden’s new Broadway staging of Aaron Sorkin’s 1989 drama starring Tom Blyth, Bradley Whitford, and Krysta Rodriguez.

“There are assignments in design that are about creativity and assignments that are about precision,” said Vietti, whose Broadway credits include Titanique, Smash, Allegiance, and Beautiful: The Carole King Musical. “This assignment is about extreme precision.”

Marines are synonymous, after all, with being inspection-ready and squared away. That exceptionalism drives the plot of Sorkin’s drama about military lawyers defending two Marines accused of murder and uncovering a conspiracy involving a commanding officer’s unlawful orders.

“You have to understand what uniforms represent for U.S. Marines and Navy JAGs,” or Judge Advocate Generals, Vietti said. “You have to make sure that you dot all the Is and you cross all the Ts.”

Creating uniforms in which every stitch, star, bar, and button are by-the-book was a different challenge than Vietti’s Lucille Lortel Award-winning work on Titanique. For that singing sendup, the designer let his imagination run wild; he dressed one actor as a glittering, living iceberg.

But the marching order for A Few Good Men was authenticity. Vietti’s immersion in the world of the play through photo research and manuals deepened his understanding of military jargon, rituals, and rank, details that were subsequently woven into the costumes.

Lt. Col. Nathan R. Jessep (Whitford) holds the key to the truth behind the cover-up. He’s seen in cammies, slang for a camouflage uniform, and a formal uniform in court. Meticulous attention went into Jessep’s ribbon rack displayed on his chest. “He really cares about rank,” said Vietti. “He mentions it in the play several times.”

The same care went into Dress Blue uniforms worn by Lt. Daniel Kaffee (Blyth), Lt. Cdr. Joanne Galloway (Rodriguez), and others in courtroom scenes. “There’s a rigidity about these uniforms,” said Vietti. “The fabric is heavy. It helps with posture. It commands authority. It helps the actor become the character.”

In addition to his own deep dive, Vietti enlisted a few good experts for Lincoln Center Theater's revival to keep things buttoned up. A USMC entertainment media liaison vetted the production, enabling the show to source ribbons and medals through official vendors. “That was a great plus,” said Vietti. “We didn’t have to do any kind of copies.”

Two uniform consultants lent extra layers of authenticity. “They gave us a lot of advice about little things — how Marines roll their sleeves, tie their shoes, and handle a cover, which is the term to refer to hats.”

“You always hold the cover facing forward, so people can see your rank,” Vietti added. “Audience members may never notice any of these details. But it’s important for the characters and the actors.”

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Photo credit: A Few Good Men on Broadway. (Photos by Emilio Madrid)